RE: Fake Card Resources and Help
Aki does, and from the pictures he's posted in the past they look quite nice
Aki does, and from the pictures he's posted in the past they look quite nice
OLD: The Fake Card Resources and Help Thread
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RE: Fake Card Resources and Help
I used to wonder why my cards always printed blurry. After some graphic design classes, I realized that it was due to resolution issues. Pretty much every card blank available is too small for high-quality printing, usually 72 DPI. To print nicely, it should be exactly 3.5" x 2.5" at 300 DPI. Though it won't be as crisp, the best you can do is scale the blanks up and sharpen them by about 40%. Do this before adding text! Once the text has been added at this resolution, the text should print crystal clear and the rest of the card should be good enough. If you want the template itself to be crisper, you'll probably have to build your own at the right resolution.
The type of paper is also important. Regular printing paper is too flimsy and tends to fade/bleed. Glossy paper is too shiny and the print tends to be a bit sticky. For an InkJet printer, I don't really have any suggestions, but card stock works great for laser printers. Unfortunately, I don't have a laser printer, so I don't tend to print non-holo cards. However, I can still print foil cards by using InkJet transparency film and mounting it to a holosheet with clear spray adhesive. However, this method results in the entire card being shiny. You can put a paper stencil between the sheets, but the quality won't be as nice. For proper holographic printing, your printer needs to have white ink support, but those printers tend to cost a LOT of cash.
Momaster12 said:
I used to wonder why my cards always printed blurry. After some graphic design classes, I realized that it was due to resolution issues. Pretty much every card blank available is too small for high-quality printing, usually 72 DPI. To print nicely, it should be exactly 3.5" x 2.5" at 300 DPI. Though it won't be as crisp, the best you can do is scale the blanks up and sharpen them by about 40%. Do this before adding text! Once the text has been added at this resolution, the text should print crystal clear and the rest of the card should be good enough. If you want the template itself to be crisper, you'll probably have to build your own at the right resolution.
The type of paper is also important. Regular printing paper is too flimsy and tends to fade/bleed. Glossy paper is too shiny and the print tends to be a bit sticky. For an InkJet printer, I don't really have any suggestions, but card stock works great for laser printers. Unfortunately, I don't have a laser printer, so I don't tend to print non-holo cards. However, I can still print foil cards by using InkJet transparency film and mounting it to a holosheet with clear spray adhesive. However, this method results in the entire card being shiny. You can put a paper stencil between the sheets, but the quality won't be as nice. For proper holographic printing, your printer needs to have white ink support, but those printers tend to cost a LOT of cash.
Anyone come across a font thats similar to the BW "basic", "stage 1" etc text? I don't need it for Pokemon Cards but somthing else.
Was wondering if anyone had come across something thats very similar, if not the same (which i doubt as I think its custom).
Was wondering if anyone had come across something thats very similar, if not the same (which i doubt as I think its custom).
Thanks for the replies!
I have another question. How would one go about adding Golden edges all over like on EX Pokémon? I once tried but ended up DESTROYING the entire image.
I have another question. How would one go about adding Golden edges all over like on EX Pokémon? I once tried but ended up DESTROYING the entire image.
Momaster12 said:
Get a very large image (sugimori art & DW is pretty good for this). Open it at full size and use the wand tool @ 1 tolerance with contiguous turned on. Then make a layer via copy and repeat that until you have all the lines you want. Then just merge those layers and put Color Overlay on with something like #fec600. It's also a good idea to put the texture on then. If the lines are fuzzy use the Magic Eraser tool to sharpen & thing the edges up.
aschefield101 said:Anyone come across a font thats similar to the BW "basic", "stage 1" etc text? I don't need it for Pokemon Cards but somthing else.
Was wondering if anyone had come across something thats very similar, if not the same (which i doubt as I think its custom).
Already replied on dA, but for others who want it...
As for the numbers, I'm pretty sure those are just slight modifications of Futura Bold.
Now that the Fairy texture's been released on Deviantart, any possibilities of getting the BW Fairy Blanks early?
Hi! I need help with adding the Pokemon's level to my fakes, how do you add up the level of
a Pokemon on a card?
Thanks!
a Pokemon on a card?
Thanks!
Black and White/custom, but Platinum would be fine.
Sorry about that, I need to know how to calculate the Pokemon's level so I can add it to the card, like how to add up the hp, the attack power and effects, and weakness and resistance to make a level number.
PMJ
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Levels are pretty much arbitrary. As long as it makes sense for the Pokemon to be at that level, any level between 1 and 100 is fine. You should also take evolution into account; if you have a Squirtle LV.25 and a Wartortle LV.40, it would not make much sense to have Blastoise LV.36.
Likewise, since Squirtle evolves early on, it would not make much sense to have a Squirtle LV.76.
I once made a Gliscor LV.2 since that is the lowest level you can legitimately obtain one, but that was more to be funny than anything else.
Likewise, since Squirtle evolves early on, it would not make much sense to have a Squirtle LV.76.
I once made a Gliscor LV.2 since that is the lowest level you can legitimately obtain one, but that was more to be funny than anything else.
As PMJ said, levels mean very little in the TCG. There's no specific formula or calculation used. If it helps, take a look at real cards of your chosen Pokémon and use that as a good basis (they tend to keep levels in a certain range for specific monsters). In the case of a BW Pokémon that hasn't had a card released with a level value, approximate based on similar Pokémon (i.e. a Conkeldurr should have the level in the range set by Machamp cards).
Okay, thanks. I was hoping there was a formula behind it so I could add a level cap for decks with fake cards, not a big deal though.
Thanks CMP and PMJ
Thanks CMP and PMJ
Anyone remember my Japanese Neo blanks and how they only included Basic Pokémon?
Well, now you can make Stage 1 and Stage 2 Pokémon as well!
I included textless versions in case you want to make Japanese-style cards with non-Japanese text.
Just paste and position them onto a Basic blank, then erase where it overlaps the type symbol (or whatever method you prefer to get the symbol above the bar). Refer to a real Japanese Neo Pokémon card for placement. Also available are Stage bars for Dark Pokémon. I doubt I'll be making Light or Baby Evolution bars anytime soon, but I rarely see people making those.
Well, now you can make Stage 1 and Stage 2 Pokémon as well!
I included textless versions in case you want to make Japanese-style cards with non-Japanese text.
Just paste and position them onto a Basic blank, then erase where it overlaps the type symbol (or whatever method you prefer to get the symbol above the bar). Refer to a real Japanese Neo Pokémon card for placement. Also available are Stage bars for Dark Pokémon. I doubt I'll be making Light or Baby Evolution bars anytime soon, but I rarely see people making those.
I cba to dredge up my card thread as its just not used by anyone much at all. So sneaky peek for you all regarding Mega blanks (EN) :
While most of you probably aren't interested, I think I figured out the font used for the question marks in Japanese card names/HP (such as Imakuni?). Unfortunately, and as I expected, it isn't free (and I haven't found any free links for it). I've found a free alternative, though. The question mark in the Elite Medium font aligns almost exactly with the official glyph with 130% width and faux bold.
You'll need to make the font size a little smaller than the rest of the text. For instance, when used in a name typed with Hiragino Kaku Gothic Std W8 (31px), the question mark needs to be Elite Medium (25px).
Note that exclamation marks are no different than the font used for the card name. As far as I can tell, only question marks are different.
EDIT: If you're making classic English fakes, such as an English Imakuni? card, I suggest using Eurostile at 115-120% width. It's similar to the original glyph, but matches the width of Gill Sans/Humanist better. It looks a lot nicer than the, in my opinion, very ugly Gill Sans question mark.
You'll need to make the font size a little smaller than the rest of the text. For instance, when used in a name typed with Hiragino Kaku Gothic Std W8 (31px), the question mark needs to be Elite Medium (25px).
Note that exclamation marks are no different than the font used for the card name. As far as I can tell, only question marks are different.
EDIT: If you're making classic English fakes, such as an English Imakuni? card, I suggest using Eurostile at 115-120% width. It's similar to the original glyph, but matches the width of Gill Sans/Humanist better. It looks a lot nicer than the, in my opinion, very ugly Gill Sans question mark.
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